In-office treatments to boost DNA repair?

Common cosmetic treatments, which aim to repair DNA damage, include retinoids, laser treatments, and some chemical peelings. They stimulate the skin and accelerate the replication process by dividing more cells, this produces more normal skin cells and by increasing cell turnover, help shed DNA-damaged cells.

At-home products to repair and protect DNA

According to Dr Joseph A. Lewis, the perfect at-home anti-ageing skincare regimen should be organised as a three‑step pyramid. Lewis sees sunscreen protection as the first line of defence, with a cocktail of antioxidants to protect against free radicals as the second step, and DNA repair enzymes as the final line of cellular defence. The last step is necessary in case the sunscreen protection and the antioxidants fail to do their job properly, as they all help undo damage to the DNA strand caused by toxic free radicals. The second part of the pyramid (consumers need) is the core and promotes the use of retinoids, while the third part of the pyramid — the top (nice for consumers to have) — includes peptides and growth factors.

The skin’s natural DNA repair process can be enhanced using advanced topical formulations containing evidence-based DNA repair ingredients. These are most commonly botanically-derived enzymes designed to supplement the natural processes. These ingredients should have the capability of targeting DNA damage and repairing it, either via a direct reversal of the DNA lesion or by excising or extracting the damaged DNA. These can include enzymes that reverse DNA damage, and proteins that reverse the methylation of guanine bases and enhance the DNA repair processes. The DNA enzymes mimic the body’s own response to stimulate the repair process with specific enzymes. The four most popular DNA repair enzyme compounds available in the US are ultrasomes, roxisomes, photosomes, and unirepair. They are all used in liposome form, key to the effectiveness, as the liposome delivery system transports the enzymes directly to the cells.

All four enzymes can be used in one or a number of topical formulations because these enzymes work in different ways within the skin^4–6:

• Ultrasomes: a DNA repair enzyme, T4N5, from the bacterial micrococcus lysate. This endonuclease enhances the body’s natural DNA repair process by stimulating the recognition and extraction of DNA damage
• Roxisomes: a DNA repair enzyme, OGG-1, from the plant Arabidopsis thaliana. OGG-1 targets mitochondrial and nucleic DNA and excises DNA damaged by oxidation
• Photosomes: a DNA repair enzyme, photolyase, drawn from a plankton extract. Photolyase breaks the cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers caused by UV exposure and converts them back to their original base formation
• Unirepair: provides the natural precursors of the skin’s intrinsic repair processes including the amino acids acetyl tyrosine and proline. Hydrolysed vegetable protein and adenosine-5′-triphosphate also speed up the repair reactions.

It is also vital to protect against further nucleic and mitochondrial DNA damage with antioxidants, cellular activity enhancers, and immune defense system protection. The Langerhans cells of the immune system have a vital role in protecting the skin via the recognition and removal of skin cells containing mutated DNA, so it is essential to protect these key immune cells and maintain skin health.

Experts also recommend anti-glycation actives such as carnesine and collagen peptides, which help to repair dermal damage. Other compounds that contain vitamin C, zinc, copper, selenium or ubiquitin, as well as vital minerals can help increase the rate of DNA repair, and make DNA damage more easily sensed, or allow the DNA repair enzymes to work more efficiently.

Finally, stem cell extracts are the latest approach to DNA repair for the skin as they work on the actual genes responsible for DNA repair, as well as collagen synthesis and hyaluronic acid production to keep the skin moist and hydrated, which aids in nutrient delivery and cell function in general.

The first product on the market to start the trend was Remergent (AGI Dermatics, New York, US) in 2008. Remergent was then bought by Estée Lauder and the brand discontinued. Since 2009, many companies have launched anti-ageing cosmeceutical products with DNA repair enzymes. Worldwide skincare brands have jumped on the bandwagon and added DNA repair enzymes to their formulations.

A new project led by a Newcastle University team has developed a new DNA rating for sunscreen. Currently sunscreens are rated for their ability to prevent sunburn but not for their ability to protect against DNA damage. However, research has shown that levels of sunlight not strong enough to cause sunburn can still damage the skin’s DNA. The Newcastle University team has already developed a test to show how badly the skin’s DNA has been damaged over time. This ‘sunburnt DNA’ is like a skin cancer time bomb.

Conclusions

This is only the beginning of therapies and actives to slow down the degradation of our DNA and speed up its repairing process. Experts agree that DNA repair enzymes should be incorporated in day cream, night cream, and sunscreen alike, and expect more skincare products will be launched in the next couple of years.

Will customising creams according to our DNA become a readily-available reality in the next few years? Can we imagine physicians sending their patients for a DNA blood test? According to experts, a simple blood test won’t tell us much, but a skin sample will be more appropriate to tell us the kind of injuries that our DNA has sustained. However, these experts also believe that the cost of individualising a cream to suit each patient’s needs does not make financial sense. With all this information in mind, let’s remain realistic and create creams with a wide range of DNA protective and repairing actives.