Plant extracts

Among the potent plant extracts known to exert antioxidant effects is verbascoside, a natural plant agent derived from phytostem lilac leaf cell culture, and available in the NeoStrata Skin Active Antioxidant Defense Serum (Neostrata Company, Inc., Princeton, NJ). Verbascoside shows strong anti-inflammatory activity since it induces a dose-dependent decrease of the expression of the pro-inflammatory chemokine IL-8 on primary cultures of human keratinocytes stimulated by TNF-α, and using the TEAC shows strong antioxidant activity when compared with other commonly used antioxidants (Figure 4).

After water, tea remains the most consumed beverage and many studies have shown the health benefits that can come from drinking tea. A review paper17 showed that the catechin epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), a polyphenol antioxidant found in green tea leaves, protects DNA against oxidative damage.

The antioxidant activity of polyphenols has been researched extensively, one area that has attracted recent attention are the oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs). OPCs exhibit free radical scavenging activity, chelate transition metals, and inhibit enzymes, as well as having a protective role against lipid peroxidation and peroxynitrite18. In short, they address many of the chemical processes leading to premature skin ageing.

To demonstrate the anti-ageing effects of compound antioxidants combined with a high potency regimen, Farris et al19 undertook a 16-week, randomised, double-blind, vehicle controlled assessment of the efficacy and tolerability of a multi-mechanism skincare regimen. A subset continued using the products for a further 14 weeks. Antioxidants in the regime included gluconolactone, maltobionic acid, chardonnay grape seed extract, verbasocide, and vitamin E. The clinical assessments used included skin thickness via ultrasound (half the population) and digital calipers, skin replicas (half the population) to support grading, and digital photography and visual grading by a trained clinician with pinch recoil test to assess firmness and elasticity.

Figure 4

The results showed comprehensive anti-ageing benefits, such as measurable reductions in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduced laxity, reductions in both tactile and visual roughness, increased clarity, reduced pore size, and reduced sallowness to photodamaged skin as early as 2 weeks into the study, with continuing statistically significant and measurable improvements throughout the 30 weeks of the study period. The vehicle controlled data supports the conclusion that objectively measured anti-ageing results are achievable and are consistent with reversal of photoaged skin19.

Conclusions

There are many different antioxidants, and a combination will combine to address the variety of free radicals. Proven ingredients include:

Figure 5 Skin active regimen with Neostrata Skin Active range (A) before and (B) after 16 weeks

Figure 5 Skin active regimen with Neostrata Skin Active range (A) before and (B) after 16 weeks

  • Lilac leaf cell culture extract
  • Green tea extract
  • Chardonnay grape seed extract (a powerful antioxidant known to suppress a particular type of free radical — the peroxyl free radicals)
  • Polyhydroxy acids, such as gluconolactone
  • Bionic polyhydroxyacids, such as lactobionic acid and maltonionic acid
  • Vitamins C and E
  • Ferulic acid
  • Polypodium leucotomas
  • Caffeic acid
  • Alpha-lipoic acid
  • Coenzyme Q-10
  • Glutathione
  • Idebenone
  • Polyphenols
  • Carotenoids
  • Flavones
  • Kinetin.

These ingredients represent an appropriate complex of ingredients that offer distinct antioxidant mechanisms, and should be packaged in an air-tight metallicised glass pump action container for optimal shelf life of the antioxidant.

Authors experience