Bespoke therapies

As the skincare sector becomes increasingly saturated, targeted offerings and services are becoming a vital tool to gain a competitive advantage. Increasingly knowledgeable consumers are demanding more personalised products and treatments. Clinics have evolved to include more bespoke services tailored to their specific needs.

For example, ingredients based on personal genetics that might delay cellular ageing for longer are on the horizon. The diagnostic component in skincare may have the ability to pre-determine what ingredients, and in what concentration, will work best for each individual’s wrinkles, acne, pigmentation and more.

Another variation on this theme is skincare and beauty ranges developed to target consumers of a specific age group. For example, millennials and GenYers eager to maintain their youthful looks, menopausal women who want to reverse the signs of ageing, teens motivated to keep acne at bay, and men looking to keep their skin healthy.

The bright stuff

Although the Asia–Pacific region has historically been credited with the huge growth in lightening and brightening products, both incorporated into anti-ageing formulations or on their own, the desire for brighter and more radiant skin is also strong across Europe, the Middle East and Africa, as well as North America.

Although among many dermatologists hydroquinone remains the gold standard, new alternatives based on novel enzymes and peptides have been launched into the professional skincare arena from brands such as Lumixyl, Neocutis, Elure and SkinMedica among others, that are giving hydroquinone a run for its money.

Treatments that address the special needs of darker skin types are also on the rise to meet the demand.

‘Ethnicity does not confer skin type because so many people are of mixed racial origins,’ says Martiza Perez, MD, a dermatologist in Danbury, CT. ‘The most common skin complaint among darker skin types is hyperpigmentation of some kind. Although I educate all of my patients in the same way, treatment for skin of colour patients is not the same. For example, skin of colour cannot tolerate inflammation in the same way, and it may take a long time to reverse. This is why sunscreen should be an integral part of every skincare regimen for acne, eczema, and other skin disorders.’

Water, water everywhere

Apparently, consumers are obsessed with hydrating their skin. New research from Mintel BPC highlights a recent shift from manufacturers toward moisturisers, as 66% of all new skincare products launched globally in 2012 had a moisturising and hydrating claim2. In fact, product launches communicating the inclusion of water from oceans, glaciers, springs or spas have been growing in popularity.

The reasons cited for consumer interest in moisturisers include weather conditions, stress and ageing, but women are also programmed by the skincare and cosmetics industry to think of ageing skin as being dry and in need of hydration to prevent and reverse wrinkles. Mintel’s research showed that dry skin is one of the key concerns of European women. In the US, over half (52%) of consumers buy facial skincare products to treat or prevent dry skin, compared with 56% of consumers in the UK, 37% of French women and almost half (48%) of German women. Furthermore, more than one third of women in France (33%), Germany (37%), Italy (35%) and Spain (39%) use facial skincare to prevent or delay the onset of fine lines and wrinkles.

Retail realities

The opportunities for incorporating skincare into clinical treatments continue to show growth. Aesthetic clinics and spas are readily interested in adding new treatment offerings and retail products, shorter treatment options, and new ways to promote their retail vertical to customers.

While some consumers continue to spend cautiously on their pre- and post-treatment skincare purchases, many seek out the expert advice and convenience of getting their products where they have their BOTOX and IPL treatments. The biggest lament of practitioners on the topic of dispensing products is that patients often come in for a consultation, get their advice, and then go online to make a purchase at a discounter or an unauthorised dealer.

Although beauty institutes and salons were traditionally the largest doors in Europe in the professional skincare category, the proliferation of aesthetic clinics and medical providers in Europe and the US continues to grow. In the US, in-office dispensing offers practitioners a potentially lucrative passive income stream. The growing number of franchised clinic chains and other professional outlets provides promising distribution for skincare vendors looking to increase their market penetration without resorting to selling direct to consumers.

The medispa channel remains strong in the US, having weathered a recession that saw numerous closings, consolidations and acquisitions. According to Bonnie Marting, ARNP, of West Palm Beach, FL, ‘Our retail sales have never been stronger. We can attribute this to the fact that we feature an edited selection of advanced skincare brands, such as SkinMedica and iS Clinical, that are exclusive to medical facilities, so our clients cannot just go to the mall or on Amazon to get them. We invest in ongoing training for our team of aestheticians, and clients value the highly personalised service we offer.’