Sabine Zenker discusses the best topical cosmeceuticals to use in order to complement and enhance treatment results.
Finding your way through the myriad of skincare options often requires professional advice. Dermatologists can diagnose and treat a wide range of skin conditions where adjunctive topical skincare could effectively complement prescribed treatments. The question is, which adjunctive topical skincare to choose?
A mix between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals contain biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits1,2. These topical creams, ointments and lotions are designed to enhance the way the skin works to reduce the signs of ageing. Cosmeceuticals are not tested or approved drugs, but rather appear in the consumer arena. However, in recent years, dermatological research suggests that the bioactive ingredients used have benefits beyond those of traditional moisturizers1,3.
New trend in cosmeceuticals
The new trend in cosmeceuticals is combination products, which contain multiple ingredients such as antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, peptides and UV filters. On the one hand, there is no one-and-only ingredient; on the other hand, customers and patients are reluctant to perform complex daily routines. For example, BB Cream provides an all-in-one facial cosmetic product that acts as a moisturizer, primer, foundation, and sunblock.
To treat the common problems associated with ageing skin, such as dull complexions and pigmentary changes, regeneration is used, based on the three-pillar regeneration, regulation, and reshaping principle.
Regeneration by topicals
Antioxidants such as Vitamin C/E/A derivatives and polyphenols can neutralise and reduce the
harmful effects of free radicals.
Topical antioxidants in skincare products aim to prevent the signs of photoageing4.
Alpinia Galanga leaf extract stimulates the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid5, which improves skin acid’s viscoelastic properties6. Pluryal® Skincare products use a unique complex combining hydrolysed hyaluronic acid with (Hyalufix®) and Alpinia Galanga leaf extract (Hyacare 50®).
Plant stem cells
Derived from plants such as argan trees, delivery growth factors improve the regenerative capacity of dermal stem cells7 to achieve deep-seated skin rejuvenation.
Peptides, such as Matrikine, are small-sequence amino-acid chains that stimulate the synthesis of new collagen synthesis8. Pluryal® Skincare, by MD Skin Solutions, provides these peptides in their cosmeceutical products.
It is difficult to find a daily skincare cream with both anti-ageing properties and a high SPF. Advanced skincare ranges, such as Pluryal® Skincare, include safe and efficient UV filters such as Tinosorb Aqua and Uvinul A Plus Granular for high protection (SP 50+/UVB and SPF 40/UVA) BB creams.
Providing optimised skin regeneration and protection, cosmeceuticals are an important part of your daily skin care. Dermatologists are often the most knowledgeable source of information, however, a combination of innovative ingredients and advanced working agents compatible with UV filters make life easier for end-consumers. BB creams provide you with effective and holistic daily skincare.
1. Zettersten EM. Optimal ratios of topical stratum corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 1997;37:403-8
2. Draelos, ZD. The cosmeceutical realm. Clin Dermatol. 2008 Nov-Dec; 26(6):627-32. doi: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2007.09.005
3. Zhou Chen et al. Heat Modulation of Tropoelastin, Fibrillin-1, and MatrixMetalloproteinase-12 in Human Skin In VivoJ Invest Dermatol 124:70 –78, 2005
4. Bogdan A et al. Antioxidants used in skin care formulations. Skin Therapy Lett. 2008 Sep; 13(7):5-9
5. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: its effects on epidermal gene Expression and skin ageing“; SOEFW Nov 2008
6.Pavicic T et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology: JDD [2011, 10(9):990-1000
7. Morus M et al. Plant stem cells as innovation in cosmetics Acta Pol Pharm. 2014 Sep-Oct; 71(5):701-7
8. Zhang L et al. Cosmeceuticals and peptides. Clin Dermatol. 2009 Sep-Oct; 27(5):485-94