Evaluating new products

As new products are launched into the professional sector, practitioners need to determine whether or not they are safe, effective, and appropriate for their patients. Among the more mature and science-based brands, clinical trials have become mandatory to demonstrate credibility behind the claims they can make. With clinical data to support the efficacy of the product range, practitioners may feel more comfortable recommending products to their patients.

Consumers may be more trusting of a clinic’s recommendations if they dispense several ranges, a variety of skin care products, kits and homecare systems. To ethically dispense cosmeceuticals means that the practitioner, medical aesthetician, nurse or beauty therapist should be able to explain the ingredients, formulation, how it works, and how to use it.

When reviewing products to dispense, research the company who manufactures the products as well as the selling organisation or distributor before making a selection. Look for solid studies published in peer-reviewed journals, rather than the type of small patient assessment studies that are typically used to market a cosmetic product. Don’t be afraid to ask hard questions either. The leading medical skincare brands that stand behind their products will have this information readily available, as well as before/after photographs and physician testimonials. Physicians need to be diligent about the products that are being sold in their clinic. Ideally, there should be a sound reason behind the formulation and key ingredients to distinguish the product range from something that your patients can pick up at any drugstore. The results of using the products you are dispensing should be tangible so that there is an inherent value being offered to the patient.

Product selection

Most successful clinics offer a wide spectrum of products to meet the needs of their patients. Keep in mind your patients’ goals and skincare concerns, as well as skin types. Cleansers, sunscreens and moisturisers are just the beginning. Many clinics today carry specialised treatments for a full list of common concerns, such as acne, ageing skin, rosacea, and pigmentation, as well as targeted products for specific areas like the eyes, neck, body and lips. While we tend to think of the face first when it comes to skincare, the body, hands and feet also need attention.

lewis2Home devices can also be found among the wide range of skincare products. In recent years, the category of home devices has gained consumer acceptance and growing popularity owing to their ability to boost the effects of a daily regimen and improve skin quality in between in-office treatments. The market has exploded with tools like cleansing brushes, light therapy devices and hair removal at-home systems that provide treatments that were once only available in the clinic.

Diligent product selection is pivotal to the success of your retailing efforts. Identify your customers’ needs and link them directly to product attributes. Select product lines that address your patients’ specific concerns. Acne, ageing and pigmentation are the most common skincare conditions and should be well served by the products on offer. In general, the criteria for choosing a product mix should include: patient population, demographics, lifestyle, skin concerns, other services you offer, price point, and patient requests.

For example, an older patient population may be most concerned with lines, wrinkles, sagging and brown spots. Younger patients will most likely be interested in acne therapies. If you have a lot of male patients, consider adding products specifically geared towards male issues, such as ingrown hairs, shaving, and back acne. Skin of colour is another important consideration and products that are suitable for all skin types as well as specific products that work for darker skin type concerns are paramount.  Another consideration is where your clinic is located; Londoners will have vastly different skincare needs than those enjoying an outdoor lifestyle in Spain or Italy.

It is common for aesthetic clinics to carry multiple brands; however, stocking overlapping or similar products can confuse patients. If they are shown too many products, they may become overwhelmed and feel like they are being sold. Start a patient on one or two products from a particular brand and expand as they become acquainted with the brand and its benefits.

Keep it simple by stocking four basic categories of products: cleansers, moisturisers, sunscreens, and anti-ageing products. To break these categories down even further, you may want to have a gentle all-purpose cleanser, a creamy formula for dry skin, and a purifying or gel-type cleanser for oily skin as an example.

Moisturisers should similarly reflect the most common preferences: a lotion, a cream, oil-free light lotion, and a product that contains a sunscreen for daily use. Serums tend to be best sellers because they are often the hero product of any anti-ageing range. The anti-ageing category should include all or most of the main skincare ingredients that have good science behind them, including but not limited to:

  • Retinoids
  • Glycolic acids
  • Salicylic acid
  • Antioxidants
  • Peptides
  • Polyphenols
  • Enzymes
  • Botanicals
  • Growth factors.

Every patient who comes into the clinic will need a sunscreen and a moisturiser at a minimu,  regardless of skin type, plus specialty treatments such as acne preparations and pigment lighteners. The best indicators of the products that are missing from your current selection are the inquiries you get from your patients.

You do not need to invest in a complete line immediately. Most vendors will allow you to select the specific products that will work best for your clinic. Once the clinic staff and patients become comfortable with the line, and replenishment grows, you can increase the number of SKUs (stock-keeping units) you carry.