Mesotherapy
Similarly to the French cosmetic medicine market, mesotherapy is strong in Russia. Mesotherapy is the practice of multiple micro-injections in the dermis of an active solution for the restructuring of the cutaneous tissue obtained by the biological stimulation of the fibroblasts.
Western products such as those from Laboratoires Filorga and mesoEXPERT are well-entrenched in Russia, with a few local brands such as Mesopharm also making waves. (Not everyone brings safe and reliable products with a CE mark, however.)
The Filorga NCTF cocktail with hyaluronic acid and six essential revitalising families of actives (12 vitamins, 23 amino acids, six coenzymes, five nucleic bases, four minerals and one antioxidant) is the leading product on the Russian market to revitalise the face, neck, dcollet and backs of the hands. According to Breng’re Boucly, Marketing Director for Laboratoires Filorga, even though their products are positioned as a premium product, they are No.1 because physicians like the efficacy and see them as a very safe treatment.
Laboratoires Filorga sell approximately 70000 vials per year, with 25% annual growth. Another growing Swiss/Ukrainian company in this segment is HyaLual, with a new class of injectable for both face and body combining succinate (the sodium salt of amber acid) with hyaluronic acid to control ageing with a process they call ‘redermalisation’ (a combination of interrelated biochemical, metabolic, and histological regeneration processes, aimed at rejuvenation). Succinate has powerful restorative and antioxidant effects, efficiently blocks free radicals, and influences skin metabolism by improving cellular metabolism, ion transport, protein synthesis, as well as stimulating energy (ATP) production and improving microcirculation.
The Russian mesotherapy market is unique in its broad use of homeopathic products; aesthetic homeopathic mesotherapy (also referred to as biopuncture in Continental Europe) is very popular. Many physicians work in combination with a homeopath to come up with cocktails to help with problems of menopause, anti-ageing and lymphatic drainage (with brands such as Heel and OTI). Dr Elena Parsagashvili uses it to improve lymphatic drainage and boost micro-circulation in the skin. Also strong in the Russian mesotherapy market is the use of lipolysis agents to slim the body and face.
Platelet rich plasma
PRP is a fairly new treatment in Ukraine and Russia and is directly competing with mesotherapy and biorevitalisation treatments. Professor Alexander Turkevych frequently uses PRP. It is the fourth most popular treatment in his clinic after botulinum toxin, dermal fillers and thread lifting. It’s a simple, non-surgical, in-office procedure that involves having blood drawn from the arm, then spun in a centrifuge to separate out the platelets. The platelets are then injected into the face, in the hope of stimulating new collagen production. PRP is another example of the growing worldwide trend for treatments that forgo foreign substances to rejuvenate the face.
Thread lifting
Thread lifting to rejuvenate the face is a highly popular treatment in Russia.
Using threads to lift the face has been used in surgery for 15 years. The implanted thread has been a successful alternative to traditional facelifts in countries all over the world. Today, the market is moving towards a less invasive version of threading with bioabsorbable thread armoring. The procedure is as simple as a dermal injection.
Minimally-invasive technologies like Aptos and Light Lift thread applications allow patients to receive practically instantaneous results, creating perfect facial contours of the face, slowing down the ageing process, and preserving beauty without any surgical intervention, meaning the absence of scars and a short rehabilitation period. Light Lift Threads are made of caprolac, a material that is completely eliminated from the body in 360 days.
A new generation of resorbable threads comes with skin rejuvenating actives with L-lactide acid (a compound of the thread) to provide additional anti-ageing effects. According to Dr Elena Parsagashvili, thread lifting works best for the cheekbones, the lip area with nasolabial folds, and facial contouring. The perfect candidate is approximately 40–50 years of age and needs some lifting to correct a mild sagging of the soft tissue as opposed to severe sagging of the skin, which will require surgery. There are a number of companies involved, including the Russian brand Aptos (PLA), the Spanish Silhouette Soft and the Seoul-based Lead Fine Lift (PDO).
What about physician-dispensed products?
Top clinics are starting to sell cosmeceuticals even though the market is in its infancy. Worldwide players such as SkinCeuticals, physiogel and Environ are penetrating the market.
Conclusions
Non-invasive interventions will continue to grow strongly as many women want to avoid going under the knife. Combined treatments — injections and energy-based rejuvenation, threads and deep peelings — in order to postpone surgical rejuvenation is where the market is heading. The surgical cosmetic market will continue being completely interdependent with non-invasive interventions; surgery alone cannot improve the skin and prevent ageing.
There is high demand in both Russia and Ukraine for the top worldwide manufacturers to invest more in the aesthetic medicine market, to bring their latest products and technologies to the region, and to provide physicians with high quality training. Thus far, there is a lack of big companies with the resources to help make this market safer and more efficient.
